Map

Saturday, January 18, 2014

Biking through Colombia: From the coast to Pailitas




One thing is sure: Colombians are familiar with bikers, but not with a solo-white-female-touring biker. 

Sometimes I wished I could hide my identity for several reasons: men wouldn't ask me after 5 minutes whether they can marry me and people wouldn't assume that I have a lot of money (but according to their standards it is true). Nevertheless it gives opportunities to talk - depending whether I'm able to understand their Spanish. After staying 5 weeks at the Carribean coast I felt confident enough with my basic Spanish to travel.


From Cienaga to Aracata - early in the morning.




Some statistics:
Day 1 to Cienaga - 41,8 km (avg speed 15,8 km/h)
Day 2 to Aracataca - 59,6 km (avg speed 16,3km/h)
Day 3 to Bosconia - 80,2 km (avg speed 15,4 km/h)
Day 4 to San Luis de Chiriguana - 80,8 km (avg speed 15,9 km/h)
Day 5 to Pailitas - 64,5 km (avg speed 16,6 km/h)





Biking in Colombia is a great challenge! For now it was fairly flat and good shape of roads, but mountains and windy roads are waiting for me. We'll see how it goes! 

I wasn't even biking for 5 minutes and I already got a thumbs up from a woman. These positive gestures I received continuously along my way, and although it seems unrelevant, to me it is encouraging! Every morning I try to leave between 5.30 and 6.30 am to escape the heat , although around 9am it starts getting warm, certainly when there are no trees for some shade.

Every 20 km you can find little towns (pueblitos) where they sell fruits and drinks. Lunch is the best moment of the day, for 2 to 4 euros you get a big bowl of soup, a plate of rice (always rice!) with meat/fish,  jucas/platanos, and a little salad.

Owner of a restaurant was interested in my bike - Chiriguana.

People are very friendly and curious. Depending on the size of the town, they know very little about Europe. So every time I stop I get a lot of questions about my origin.

Several times I got food offered or even accommodation!  The hospitability is huge. Making friends has never been so easy! 


In Pailitas I stopped for more then 1 night. Initially because I had a food poisoning again (First, I thought it was because of a lulo juice, but probably I need to pay more attention which water I buy..). Next, before I know I ended up staying 10 days in Pailitas, thanks to all my new friends who wanted to introduce me to their daily lifes!

Day 1: Cienaga. Casa del diabolo


Bike taxi's in Cienaga.
Cayman - very famous in Cienaga. Every year a 4 day Cayman festival takes place.
My 2 new friends in Cienaga. Coconut- time!
Getting dressed for the Cayman festival?
You can aways find a hammock to lay in.

Fishermen
Fresh seafood!





Day 2: Jose bikes from Cienaga to Fundacion several days a week
Ultra-modern shower in Aracataca
Aracataca - hometown of Gabriel Marquez

Aracataca

Day 3: From Aracata to Bosconia

Bike in my colorful room - Bosconia.
Day 5: Sunrise!

Small shoulder and huge trucks..
First time in Las Vegas!
From Chiriguana to Pailitas.
beautiful mountains...




Wednesday, December 25, 2013

Noche Buena in Taganga







My dear family, I truly miss you!


Nevertheless, I had a great time being part of a Colombian family in Taganga during Christmas Eve! This how my day went: 
Took a long siesta after lunch (as always), got active after sunset, took a cold shower and put on a nice dress. For this
 occasion, I have invested in a colorful dress, after bringing the price down to 20.000 COP (quick calculation: 8 EUR). Around midnight we started with a delicious meal. My favourite part was the desert called Natilla, made of milk, maizena, a lot of sugar and on top of it some kind of raspberry coulis. We ended the evening in a local discoteca "El Mirador", different beats on a outdoor dancefloor with the best view over Taganga.

What have I done so far?

-Biked from Santa Marta to Taganga, which took me only 30 min, but the sweat was dripping of me.
-Enjoying the beaches. My favourite is La Playa Grande, only accessible via a little hike up in the mountains or a small boat. Very remote beach nevertheless full with Colombian people! My white skin has been noticed by everyone. Swimming, eating, drinking and receiving a massage are the main activites. I can higlhy recommend the full-body coconut oil massage for 10.000 COP (probably you can try it even cheaper!), it made my skin suave for several days.
-Watching sunset every day. I can't take enough pictures of it...
Thank you, Luis.
-Cooked for my hosts Andres and his mom Nohra. Made them a very traditional dish "tomaten in de oven". A dish I will try to make in every country, so simple but will taste differently every time depending on the food resources.
-Sleeping in a hammock under the open sky. Sometimes I even wake up because of the very bright moonlight
-Taking courses of scubadiving! How amazing. I finished my last class yesterday and once I have studied for my theoritical exam (which I should be doing at this very moment), I'll be a PADI open water diver. 



Few tips on how to survive in Taganga:
* Bring earplugs with you. Possessing a set of speakers is as important as water. Everyone should know which songs you're listening to. The louder, the better. Either you listen to it either you hate it.
* Don't trust a map of Taganga and don't expect an indication of streetnames. It looks like there is no civilization here as streets are not paved, but really people do live here. Wander around! And in case you speak Spanish, just ask what you're looking for. Anyone would love to help you.
* Stay hydrated! Certainly when the wind picks up and spreads a huge amount of dust from the unpaved streets.



Me and my instructor
A sea horse!

Trying to follow the fish


Look, without oxygen mask!




Me and Luis hiking towards La Playa Grande
Crazy wind...
Me and Karin with coconut oily skin
Hilarious!
Crazy ride on a local bus
Something is missing here...

Not drinking Rum.




Andres and me (got his hat as a Christmas present!)
My open air hammock!


Very proud of this one!


Siesta



Christmas dinner
Nohra and me.
Modern Christmas tree
 Merry Christmas! 


Friday, December 6, 2013

Santa Marta


I'm loving it! The Carribbean lifestyle in Santa Marta feels like a holiday. A cute historic downtown with a big contrast of beautiful colorful houses and old neglected buildings. Foodcharts every two meter; Cars and motorbikes honking like crazy; People walking in the middle of the street as I've learned that pavements have their only function as you enter or leave a house. 
Obviously, you must imagine all this with a lightblue sky, a burning sun and not to forget a wind coming from an unknown direction that blows you away when you expect it the least.

Please note that not all pictures are taken by myself! My photographers are Gabriela Witek and Andreas Valkiers.




Seeing and hugging my EMLE friends felt even better! Wandering around, eating the best ice cream, enjoying lunch with a jugo naturale, explaining my crazy bike story, discovering the nightlife

,...
Who's the best imitator of a frog?

Trying to wear a hat
                                  



Let me present you my two lovely and hilarious ladies, Gabi and Martina. Coming from Canada and Serbia. 


Both enjoying their ice cream in their own way.











The EMLE family minus Andreas (recovering from his hangover)
love this pic!

Bienvenidos in La Puerta...

....for just 1 drink!